Grooming Shears Care Guide
My New Toothed Grooming Shears Are Catching — What Should I Do?
If your new thinner, blender, chunker, fluffer, eraser, or other toothed grooming shear catches straight out of the box — or works normally at first and then starts catching after the first one or two uses — stop using force, but do not panic.
Catching is a known issue with toothed grooming shears and does not automatically mean that the shears are defective or permanently damaged. Because every tooth must pass the opposite cutting blade along a precise path, toothed shears are more sensitive to changes in thumb pressure, blade opening, tension, and blade tracking than conventional solid-blade shears.
The Most Important Rule: Do Not Force the Blades Closed
The first catch may be minor. Continuing to squeeze, repeatedly opening and closing through the resistance, or trying to “push past” the catching point can turn a temporary contact into a nick on the cutting edge, a damaged tooth, or a more persistent mechanical catch.
What you do after the first catch matters.
Does Yours Look Like This?
Toothed shears do not always catch in exactly the same way. The examples below show several common patterns. The final example shows the most important mistake to avoid: continuing to apply force after the blades have already caught.



The Two Situations We Hear Most Often
Most first-use catching concerns fall into one of two patterns. They may feel different, but both can involve the same underlying mechanical relationship between the toothed blade and the opposing cutting blade.
1. “They Caught Almost Immediately After I Received Them.”
A new pair of shears may have a different blade curve, tooth geometry, handle shape, finger-ring size, weight, balance, tension, or opening range from the pair your hand is already accustomed to.
Your hand naturally carries muscle memory from your previous shears. A movement that caused no noticeable problem with another pair may apply pressure differently to the new pair — particularly if your thumb moves slightly sideways or the blades are opened very wide.
This does not mean that new shears should be forced through a “break-in” period. A new shear should not require force to close normally.
2. “They Were Fine at First, Then Caught After One or Two Uses.”
Catching does not have to happen on the first cut. You may make many completely normal movements before one stroke includes slightly more sideways thumb pressure, a wider blade opening, a tighter grip, a different wrist angle, or more resistance from the coat.
That one movement can create the first light contact between a tooth and the cutting blade. At this stage, the situation may still be minor.
The key question is what happens next: whether the pressure is released — or whether the shears are repeatedly forced through the same catching point.
Why a Small First Catch Can Become a Bigger Problem
This is why we recommend dealing with a catching sensation early rather than continuing to open and close the shear to see whether it will disappear on its own.
Why Can Toothed Grooming Shears Catch More Easily?
A conventional cutting shear normally has two continuous blades passing each other. A blender, thinner, chunker, fluffer, eraser, or similar texturizing shear usually combines a continuous cutting blade with a blade containing multiple individual teeth.
Each tooth must pass the opposing cutting blade along its intended path during every closing movement.
Two Continuous Blade Surfaces
A very small amount of lateral movement may be less noticeable because there are no individual teeth creating separate potential contact points.
Individual Teeth Must Pass the Cutting Blade
If blade tracking changes sideways, even slightly, one individual tooth can become the first point to contact the opposite cutting edge.
This is why toothed shears generally have less tolerance for sideways blade movement than ordinary solid-blade shears.
Why Are Curved Toothed Shears Even More Sensitive?
Curved toothed shears combine three mechanical characteristics: curvature, individual teeth, and less tolerance for lateral blade movement.
1. The Curve
On a curved shear, both blades follow a curved geometry from the pivot toward the tip. The two blades must remain on their intended relationship throughout the opening-and-closing movement.
If sideways pressure changes that path, the effect can become easier to notice than on a simpler straight blade.
2. The Teeth
The curved path is then combined with multiple individual teeth. Every tooth still needs to pass the opposing cutting blade without striking it.
This creates more individual points where unwanted contact can become noticeable if blade tracking changes.
3. Less Tolerance for Sideways Movement
The combination of curvature and teeth leaves less tolerance for lateral blade movement than a conventional solid-blade shear.
This refers to operating tolerance for sideways movement — not manufacturing tolerance.
4. Small Hand Movements Become Easier to Notice
A thumb movement that caused no obvious issue with a previous straight shear may become noticeable after switching to a curved blender, thinner, chunker, fluffer, or eraser.
This can happen at any experience level.
What Usually Causes First-Use Catching?
When a new toothed shear catches immediately or after the first one or two uses, these are the first factors to check.
1. Sideways Thumb Pressure
This is one of the most important first checks. Instead of simply moving the handle through its natural opening-and-closing path, the thumb may push outward, pull inward toward the palm, or press sideways.
That lateral pressure can move the blade away from its intended tracking line and bring a tooth into contact with the opposing cutting blade.
2. Opening the Blades Too Wide
Toothed shears do not need to be opened to their maximum range on every stroke. A very wide opening can make it harder to maintain the same controlled hand path, especially with an unfamiliar pair.
When testing a new shear, use smaller, slower openings first.
3. Excessive Grip Pressure or Fast “Click-Click-Click” Movement
Rapid opening and closing makes it easier for the whole hand to become involved in the motion. Instead of the thumb controlling the moving blade while the finger side remains stable, both sides may begin squeezing toward each other.
More force does not improve the movement. It can increase unwanted blade pressure.
4. Tension
Incorrect tension can change the way the two blades interact.
- Too tight: the shear may feel heavy, stiff, or draggy and require more force from the hand.
- Too loose: the blades may not maintain their intended relationship consistently, and hair may fold or push rather than cut cleanly.
Tension is worth checking, but it should not be treated as a universal fix for a shear that repeatedly hard-stops at exactly the same point.
5. Hair, Product, or Debris Around the Blades or Pivot
Fine coat, dust, grooming product, and residue can increase friction or affect blade movement. Remove visible surface debris carefully and keep the pivot clean and appropriately lubricated.
Less Common — But More Important to Stop For
Stop troubleshooting and inspect the shear more carefully if you notice:
- a visible nick on the cutting edge;
- a visibly bent or deformed tooth;
- a hard metallic collision at exactly the same point;
- grinding or scraping;
- a change after the shear was dropped or struck another hard object;
- a blade or tip that appears out of alignment.
First Check: Your Thumb Movement
Before making large tension adjustments or trying to force the blades closed, check how your hand is moving the shear.
This Can Happen at Any Experience Level
Sideways pressure is not simply a beginner issue. A new groomer may use extra pressure because the movement feels unfamiliar, while an experienced groomer may have developed muscle memory around another pair of shears without ever needing to think about it.
Switching to a different handle shape, finger-ring size, blade curve, weight, balance, tooth geometry, or tension can make that existing movement more noticeable.
Wrong vs. Correct Thumb Movement
Incorrect movement happens when the thumb pushes the moving handle outward, hooks it inward toward the palm, presses it sideways, or adds more force when resistance is felt.
Correct movement stays within the shears’ natural opening-and-closing plane. Keep the finger side stable and allow the thumb to control the moving handle without pushing it sideways.


Independent Grooming Demonstration
The following third-party grooming demonstration is particularly useful for this issue. It shows how thumb movement, sideways pressure, and opening toothed shears too widely can contribute to catching.
Try This First
- Move completely away from the dog.
- Relax your palm and thumb.
- Keep the finger side of the shear stable.
- Remove any outward, inward, or sideways pressure from the thumb ring.
- Use a small blade opening instead of opening the shear to its maximum range.
- Move very slowly.
- If the catching changes or disappears, hand pressure or blade opening was likely contributing.
- If the same hard catching point remains, stop instead of adding more force.
Quick Diagnosis: What Kind of Catch Is It?
One of the most useful clues is whether the catching point changes with your movement or remains fixed in exactly the same position.
The Catch Changes
For example:
What this suggests: hand pressure, opening range, movement speed, or tension may be contributing.
- sometimes it catches and sometimes it does not;
- it changes when you relax your grip;
- it improves when your thumb stops moving sideways;
- it improves when you use a smaller opening;
- the stopping point is not always identical.
- the shear stops at exactly the same position every time;
- you feel the same tooth or blade area contact repeatedly;
- changing your grip does not change the stopping point;
- there is a clear metallic click, scrape, or hard stop.
The Catch Stays Fixed
For example:
What this suggests: a specific physical contact point deserves more caution. Do not repeatedly cycle through it.
| What You Notice | More Likely Direction | What to Do Next |
|---|---|---|
| Catch changes when grip changes | Thumb pressure / blade loading | Slow down, relax the hand, reduce lateral pressure |
| Catch happens mainly at a very wide opening | Opening range / tracking | Use a smaller controlled opening |
| General stiffness throughout the movement | Tension / friction / debris | Check tension, clean and lubricate appropriately |
| Light rear-blade bind with no visible damage | Common mechanical bind | Use the controlled release method below |
| Same exact hard stop every time | Possible fixed tooth-to-blade contact | Do not repeatedly test; inspect carefully |
| Visible nick, bent tooth, grinding, or drop damage | Possible physical damage | Stop using the shear and contact EliteTrim |
If the Shears Still Catch: Release a Common Rear-Blade Bind
If you have relaxed your thumb, removed sideways pressure, and the shear still remains partly open, the blades may be mechanically bound at a contact point.
In a common pattern, the stopping point appears in the rear half of the blades closer to the pivot.
Before You Use This Method
The release method below is intended for a common light mechanical bind where there is no obvious bent tooth, chip, severe nick, grinding, or impact damage.
If you can clearly see physical damage or the blades make a severe hard collision, skip this section and contact EliteTrim.


The goal is not to muscle the shear shut. The goal is to remove pressure from the contact point first, allow the blades to close gently, and then use a small controlled recovery cycle.
The illustrated method below shows right-handed shears. For left-handed shears, mirror the hand positions.
For right-handed shears, the left hand performs the fine control work on the blades. The right hand continues to hold the handle, but the right thumb stays relaxed and does not power the movement.
Step-by-Step Illustrated Method








Repeat the Recovery Cycle
Once the shear has been gently closed, repeat this small controlled cycle:
Stabilize the closed blades, slowly work them open with your fingertips, recreate the same very small gap, and let them close gently.
Repeat only while the movement is becoming progressively smoother.
The movement should always stay light, slow, and controlled. The purpose is to relieve the bind and restore the blade path — not to force the blades through the contact point.
If the Same Hard Contact Continues, Stop
Do not perform dozens of recovery cycles. If the shear continues to make hard contact at exactly the same position after several gentle attempts, stop rather than adding more force.
How to Test the Shears After the Movement Becomes Smooth
Do not immediately return to fast, full-range cutting.
- Close the shear completely.
- Relax your hand and thumb.
- Use only a small opening.
- Move slowly.
- Begin with the front third of the blades.
- Gradually increase the working range only if the movement remains smooth.
If the catching immediately returns at the same position, stop testing.
What You Want to Feel
The shear should ultimately open and close smoothly without needing additional hand force to push through a particular point.
When Should I Stop Troubleshooting?
A light technique-related catch and a fixed physical collision are not the same thing. Stop using the shear if any of the following signs appear.
Stop and Contact EliteTrim If:
- the shear stops at exactly the same hard point every time;
- one tooth visibly strikes the opposing cutting blade;
- you can see a bent or deformed tooth;
- you can see a nick, dent, or chip on the cutting edge;
- you hear a hard metallic click at the same point;
- you hear scraping or grinding;
- significant force is required to move the blades;
- the blade tips no longer appear to align normally;
- the shear was dropped or hit another hard or metal object;
- the problem becomes worse after each gentle attempt;
- you are unsure whether continuing is safe.
Independent professional shear-care guidance also emphasizes that curves, chunkers, and thinners may naturally produce some sound, but their opening and closing movement should still feel smooth rather than having the teeth catch the smooth cutting edge.
How to Start Using New Toothed Shears
New shears do not need to be forced through a “break-in” period. Instead, think of the first few uses as a short period for your hand to adapt to a different tool.
The new pair may feel different because of its:
- blade length;
- curve;
- tooth pattern;
- cutting rate;
- handle geometry;
- finger-ring size;
- weight and balance;
- tension;
- opening range.
Recommended First-Use Habits
- Start with a relaxed hand.
- Use smaller blade openings first.
- Keep the finger side stable and let the thumb control the moving handle.
- Avoid sideways, outward, or inward thumb pressure.
- Do not begin with rapid “click-click-click” full-range movement.
- Use the front third of the blades during early testing.
- Gradually increase speed and working range only after the movement feels natural.
- If a true catching sensation appears, stop immediately rather than pushing through it.
How to Reduce the Chance of Catching in the Future
- Keep the thumb relaxed during normal cutting.
- Keep the stationary side of the hand stable.
- Avoid pushing the moving handle sideways.
- Avoid unnecessarily wide blade openings.
- Use a controlled rhythm instead of excessive hand force.
- Monitor tension and avoid running the shear excessively tight or loose.
- Keep the blades and pivot free of coat and product buildup.
- Use appropriate shear oil around the pivot when needed.
- Protect the shear from drops and impact with other metal tools.
- Address the first catching sensation immediately instead of continuing to cut through it.
Frequently Asked Questions
My shears caught straight out of the box. Does that mean they are defective?
Not automatically. New toothed shears can respond differently to the hand movement you developed around another pair, particularly when blade curve, tooth geometry, balance, finger-ring size, opening range, or tension changes. First stop applying force and check thumb movement, opening range, and tension. A persistent fixed hard catch should still be inspected.
Why did they work normally at first and start catching after one or two uses?
Catching does not have to occur on the first movement. Many normal strokes may happen before one wider or more lateral movement creates the first tooth-to-blade contact. What matters most is avoiding repeated force after the first catch appears.
Is catching “normal”?
Catching is a known issue with toothed grooming shears, but it should not simply be ignored or accepted as normal operation. A correctly operating shear should ultimately open and close smoothly. Catching is a signal to stop, identify the cause, and correct it before continuing.
Why are curved toothed shears more sensitive?
They combine a curved blade path with multiple individual teeth. Every tooth still needs to pass the opposing cutting blade correctly, so the combination leaves less tolerance for sideways blade movement than a conventional solid-blade shear.
I have been grooming for years. Can thumb movement really still be involved?
Yes. This is not a judgment of grooming experience. Experienced groomers develop strong muscle memory around familiar tools. A new handle, curve, weight, tension, or tooth pattern can make an existing lateral thumb movement easier to notice.
Why do my other shears not catch?
Different shears have different geometry, balance, tension, and tooth patterns. A small sideways movement that caused no noticeable problem with a familiar solid-blade shear may become noticeable with a curved toothed shear that has less tolerance for lateral movement.
What if changing my grip makes the catch disappear?
That is an important clue. If relaxing your hand, reducing the opening, or removing sideways thumb pressure changes the catching behavior, hand pressure or blade loading was likely contributing. Continue slowly and maintain the corrected movement.
What if it catches at exactly the same place every time?
Be more cautious. A fixed repeated stopping point may indicate that the same tooth or edge area is making physical contact each time. Do not repeatedly cycle through a hard fixed contact. If the gentle release method does not improve it, stop and contact EliteTrim.
Should I loosen the tension until the catching disappears?
No. Tension can affect blade movement, but it is not a universal solution. Make only small adjustments when appropriate. A tooth that physically strikes the opposite blade cannot be repaired by repeatedly loosening the tension.
Should I keep opening and closing the shear to work the catch out?
No. Repeatedly forcing the same contact point can turn a minor bind into a nick or tooth deformation. Use only the light, controlled release cycle described above and stop if the movement does not improve.
Can I squeeze harder to close it?
No. More force is the wrong response to a catching shear. Stop applying pressure and release the contact before attempting normal movement again.
Can I bend, file, sand, or adjust a tooth myself?
No. Do not bend individual teeth or use pliers, files, sandpaper, sharpening stones, or other metal tools. The clearance between the toothed blade and cutting blade is precise, and an improvised adjustment can create additional damage.
Should I test the shear on paper?
For EliteTrim troubleshooting, no. Paper behaves differently from pet coat and is not the diagnostic test we recommend for professional toothed grooming shears. If the shear moves smoothly in the air and a coat test is necessary, use only a small section of clean, dry, fully combed, tangle-free coat.
What if the shear was dropped?
Stop using it until the blades have been inspected. A drop can create a nick or alter blade, tooth, or tip alignment even when the change is difficult to see immediately.
When should I stop trying to solve it myself?
Stop if there is a fixed hard collision, visible tooth or edge damage, grinding, scraping, abnormal tip alignment, significant force required to move the blades, a recent drop or impact, or no improvement after several gentle recovery cycles.
Still Catching? Send Us a Short Video
Catching is much easier to evaluate when we can see the complete shear, your hand movement, and the exact point where resistance begins.
Video 1 — Your Normal Grip
Show the complete shear, including your thumb, finger position, handles, pivot, blades, and tips. Slowly open and close the shear only as far as it can move without applying force.
Video 2 — The Catching Point
Move very slowly until you first feel resistance. Stop at that point. Do not push through it. Show where along the blades the catch occurs.
Video 3 — Close-Up
Please show:
- both sides of the toothed blade;
- both sides of the cutting blade;
- the tips;
- the pivot and tension dial;
- the specific tooth or area involved, if visible.
Please Also Tell Us
- your order number;
- the shear model;
- whether it caught immediately or after one or two uses;
- whether it catches while empty;
- whether it stops at the same position every time;
- whether the tension has been adjusted;
- whether the shear has been dropped or hit another hard object.
Contact: email@elitetrimgrooming.com
The Three Things to Remember
1. A new toothed shear catching does not automatically mean it is ruined.
Toothed shears — especially curved toothed designs — are more sensitive to blade tracking, sideways pressure, opening range, and tension.
2. Stop at the first sign of resistance.
The initial contact may be minor. Repeated force can turn it into physical blade or tooth damage.
3. A persistent fixed catch deserves more caution.
If the same hard contact remains, or you see damage, grinding, or abnormal alignment, stop rather than continuing to experiment.
One Last Reminder
STOP → RELAX YOUR GRIP → CHECK YOUR THUMB MOVEMENT → DO NOT FORCE → RELEASE THE CONTACT GENTLY








